The Wandering Pope: May 2018

Ireland, oh how I love you.

We've been to Dublin twice and loved it but we've never spent much time outside of the city. In May we had a work event near Dublin so we decided to go early and see what else the Emerald Isle has to offer. And we sure did pack a lot into our eight days!

Planning the trip

We had a general idea of where we wanted to go and what we wanted to see but knew we did not want to drive so we enlisted the help of Melissa at Sherry Lane Travel to arrange the details regarding a driver and lodging. After all, we needed to be able to drink our Guinness unencumbered!

Getting there

View upon landing in Shannon

Our goal was to start on the west coast and make our way east towards Dublin. We flew the new American Airlines service from Philadelphia to Shannon. Flight time was a little over five hours but with the time difference we left at 9pm and arrived in Shannon around 9am. Customs took about 5 minutes, bags were there in 15 and we headed out to find our driver.

If you have ever done a custom tour then you know that the driver can make or break your trip experience. We got lucky...extremely lucky. Just outside customs awaited Dave Wade, our tour guide extraordinaire from Emerald VIP Services. We could tell immediately that we were in good hands so off we went.

Day One - County Clare:

Cliffs of Moher

First up, a stop at the Cliffs of Moher. Rather than go to the car park like regular tourists Dave took us to the far side where we were able to walk through a field and have an amazing vantage point looking back towards the cliffs.

For lunch we stopped at Vaughan's Anchor Inn in Liscannor, Co. Clare. You enter through the bar which meets every Irish pub stereotype you can imagine. The fish and chips here were amazing and where we were introduced to "brown sauce" for the first time.

The Burren

From there we headed to the Burren which is basically a big area of limestone which feels like you are visiting the set of a Space Odyssey. It's amazing to see the juxtaposition between something so old with flora sprouting up between the rocks.

Self explanatory

Our last stop of the day was for an Irish Coffee at the original Durty Nellie's by Bunratty Castle. Many of the traditional Irish pubs have items that visitors leave including patches from police and fire officials.

Heaton's Guest House

From there it was off to Dingle and our accommodations at Heaton House. This is a true guest house which is the equivalent of a B & B in the states. It was clean, comfortable and nicer than some hotels. That night we wandered into Dingle for dinner at John Benny's pub followed by some traditional Irish music at Neligan's pub.

Day Two - Slea Head Drive and Kerry

Skelligs

We started day two with a trip on Slea Head drive around the Dingle peninsula. The views were amazing and this was my favorite day of our tour.

Beehive Huts

Our first stop was a visit to the prehistoric bee hive huts which are small huts built of perfectly placed stones which withstood the years amazingly well. The hills of the Dingle peninsula are also dotted with stone walls, sheep and cattle.

Dun Chaoin Pier

We then stopped at Dun Chaoin Pier which is not at all like the piers we are used to. It is beautiful and if you get lucky with clear skies as we did you can look across at the Blasket Islands and the Skelligs.

Gallarus Oratory

Our next stop was at the Gallarus Oratory which is an old church. It's built in the same manner as the beehive huts and it's amazing how they were able to get all of those rocks to create a structure that has lasted thousands of years and we can't even find drywall that will last more than a couple of years!

Kilmalkedar Church and Ogham Stone

My favorite stop of the day was at the Kilmalkedar Church. The cemetery was beautiful and the church has an old stone inscribed with Ogham which is a primitive Irish language. Interestingly the stone is left completely unprotected and the inscriptions are wearing down due to time.

Muckross House

We headed to Killarney for lunch at K-Town Bar and Grill before making a quick stop at Muckross
House and Gardens. We didn't go into the house but we did walk the grounds around the garden which were beautiful. It reminded me a little of the Biltmore House in Asheville, NC.

Torc Waterfall

Nearby was the Torc Waterfall which is one of the tourist highlights on the Ring of Kerry. You have to walk about 5 minutes into the forest to see the falls. The fauna in the woods is also gorgeous.

Our last stops of the day were at two scenic overlooks which afforded amazing views of the Irish countryside. After taking in the vistas we headed to our hotel for the evening.

Sheen Falls Lodge was a great resort located outside of Kenmare. It is on the water and there is a walking path that takes you through the woods to a point where you can really enjoy the sights of nature. There is also a beautiful cemetery at the entrance to the property which is fascinating. The hotel itself is comfortably upscale with an old world feel. The bar is truly old school and offered the best Old Fashioned of the trip.

Day Three - Old Head and Kinsale

This day was all about the guys (don't tell them but we really enjoyed it too!).

Old Head Lighthouse and Links

We headed out for the drive to Old Head Golf Links. In addition to the golf course, it is also off the coast here where the Lusitania sunk after being struck by a German torpedo. The drive was beautiful but it quickly changed to breathtaking as we made our way through the gates and the lighthouse came into view. Old Head is located on a peninsula and the course lines both sides of the road.

Old Head has 15 sea view suites available for rent and they are amazing. The rooms are spacious and feel like any Four Seasons or Ritz Carlton. They also have a great restaurant and bar as well as a spa. This is definitely a destination as it is at least a twenty minute ride into town.

The golf course is not for the faint of heart. Many of the holes are on cliffs overlooking the ocean and are surrounded by thick grass. Caddies are optional but if you want one you need to let the resort know at least 24-hours in advance. We did not know this but luckily there was a large group that didn't need all of theirs so the guys were able to get one at the last minute.

They definitely make caddies differently in Ireland because Kieran carried both bags. To put things in perspective, my husband's fitbit showed a step count of over 20,000 steps at the end of the round! At least the golf bags got lighter throughout the round as they donated many golf balls to the golf gods.

Kinsale Beach

While the boys were away, the girls visited Kinsale which is a cute seaside village. It was nice to have a relaxing afternoon where we strolled through the streets and enjoyed a coffee. Here we found Giles Norman which is a great gallery specializing in black and white fine art photography and Jo's Cafe which has amazing pastries and coffee. We capped off the afternoon with a stop at the beach before heading back to Old Head for the night.

Day Four - Kinsale (cont'd), Cork and Cobh

After a lot of Advil for the guys to reduce their pain from the golf outing, we headed out.

9/11 Memorial

Our first stop was to the Kinsale 9/11 Garden of Remembrance. A Kinsale local had worked in New York for 30 years and was shocked at how many firemen perished. She used her land overlooking Kinsale to create a memorial which houses a tree for each of the 343 firemen lost in 9/11. This is very simple and moving testimonial which reiterates the strong link between NYC and the Irish.

Kinsale Farmers Market

From there we were off to Kinsale again for the Farmer's Market which occurs each Wednesday. This was a perfect 30 minute stop to sample some of the local food and crafts.

English Market in Cork

Next we headed to Cork for quick walk around town and a visit to the English Market. This place is a food lovers paradise. In addition to fresh fruit and vegetables and butcher stands there are chocolatiers, patisseries and even an olive bar. I could have spent hours in there!

Irish passengers on the Titanic

Off we were to Cobh which sits on the water on Cork Harbour. Cobh is probably best known as the last port the Titanic visited prior to sinking. We visited the Cobh Heritage Centre which tells the story of Irish emigration as well as the stories of the ill fated Titanic and Lusitania voyages. This was very interesting and is worth the time.

Whiskey a go-go

After Cobh we headed to the Jameson Distillery in Midleton for a VIP tour (is there any other way?) We had a tour which included an overview of how the whiskey is made and participated in a taste comparison between Irish whiskey, scotch and bourbon. After all of that we headed in to our "VIP" tasting where we sampled four different types of Jameson whiskey. One more reason why we got a driver!

Cliff House view

From here we headed out to The Cliff House hotel in Ardmore. We loved this place. It is built into the cliff and one wall is entirely made of glass so the views are amazing. There is a walking path that takes you around to the point and you can see the remains of shipwreck as well as great views.

Beef...it's what's for dinner!

The hotel is also home to House Restaurant one of the few Michelin starred restaurants in Ireland. Simply put, the food was amazing!

Day Five - Cahir, Cashel and Rock'n'Roll!

When we originally booked our trip, one of the greatest bands of all time had not announced a European tour that included a stop in Dublin so we cut our sightseeing short this day.

Cahir Castle

First stop, Cahir Castle which is one of the largest in Ireland. It literally rises up from the trees from an island in the river and if you don't know it's there you could actually miss it. It has ridiculously high walls which explains why it is referred to as a defensive castle. The swans also like it as there were a ton of them sunning on the banks.

Rock of Cashel

From there we headed to the Rock of Cashel. Because it overlooks a vale, there is a very steep hill to get to the entrance but it is worth it. Within the walled structure is an amazing old cemetery, a tower and a cathedral. Plus, you can see miles of Irish countryside in all directions.

Start me up!

After a quick lunch in Cashel, we were off to Iniskerry, County Wicklow to meet our friends and head to the concert. Did I mention that we were seeing the Rolling Stones at Croke Park in Dublin? Say what you will but Mick, Keith, Charlie and Ron have still got it. They were definitely moving around better than some of our crew after a day of golf!

Yep, we were that close!

Seeing a show at Croke park is definitely an adventure. We saw Bruce Springsteen there in 2016 and the Stones were no different. Croke Park is located in the middle of a residential area and many of the neighbors aren't exactly thrilled when thousands of fans converge in their neighborhood. Concerts start on time and definitely end prior to the curfew (usually around 10:45 pm). This was no exception. That being said, they still packed most of their big hits into the two hour show and provide that they are very hip and fit septuagenarians!

Day Six - Powerscourt and more golf

View from Powerscourt Hotel

Our work function was at the Powerscourt Hotel in County Wicklow and is one of my all time favorite hotels (we also stayed there a few years ago). It is a beautiful property and is located next to the Powerscourt Estate which has beautiful gardens, a restaurant and cute little shops.

European Club

While the ladies took it easy, the guys headed to the European Club on Brittas Bay for golf. According to them, this is a classic Irish links course with beautiful views along the coast and plenty of native gorse to swallow your balls (golf balls that is). Having a Guinness at the turn was also a highlight for them. It sounds like it was also much easier to play than Old Head because they could actually move when they returned!

That night we had a great dinner at Sika the restaurant at the Powerscourt Hotel. Afterward, we met friends at Johnnie Fox's Pub in Glencullen. Sure it's a bit touristy (or full of paddywhackery as the locals call it) but it is still a fun place to visit and have a Guinness or Jameson...or both!

Day Seven - Kilruddery Estate and Bray

Killruddery House

We spent most of the afternoon watching the royal wedding between Prince Harry and Meghan Markle.

That evening we had an event at the Killruddery House and Gardens in Bray. This place was absolutely beautiful. We started with cocktails in the Orangery which is a beautiful glass room that overlooks the gardens.

We then moved moved into the barn for dinner and some a display of traditional (and non-traditional) Irish dance.

Afterward, we went to Bray which is located on the water for a night out at the Harbor Bar. This has been voted best bar in the world by Lonely Planet and I have to agree. This place is like Narnia because every room holds something different. In one room we found a traditional Irish band, another contained a living room complete with a cat curled up asleep in the corner and on the opposite end of the building there was a full band with a packed dance floor. It is a must!

Day Eight - Dublin

We headed to Dublin for one last day and night on the Emerald Isle. Admittedly, we were dragging at this point but we still managed to get out and about and experience the Irish capital.

Flowers at the Shelbourne

We stayed at the Shelbourne Hotel. The lobby is beautiful but the service was a bit disappointing for the level of hotel. Our room was very small with no view (despite our Platinum status with Marriott). The location is good as it is across the street from St. Stephen's green but if I had to stay there for more than one night I would not have been happy, especially given our room. We stayed at the Westin on a previous stay to Dublin and much preferred that.

National Gallery

The first stop was to the National Gallery of Ireland. Entrance is free and the museum is easy to maneuver and contains some of Ireland's greatest works as well as those of Picasso, Matisse and Vermeer. Afterward we walked around the city, past Trinity College and down to Temple Bar until it was time for us to head to the Guinness Storehouse.

We had booked the Connoisseur experience and while it is an additional fee it is worth it. You spend close to two hours in a private bar learning all about Guinness, tasting several of their beers and practicing the "perfect" pour. The room only holds twenty-five people so be sure and book this as far in advance as possible. Afterward, we headed to the Gravity Bar which overlooks all of Dublin.

Our last night was spent with a large group dinner at La Caverna in Temple Bar. This is an Italian restaurant located just slightly off of the main drag in Temple Bar and was a great, low key way to spend our last night in Ireland. We had clearly been in Ireland long enough because we couldn't even muster the energy to go out afterward!

Day Nine - Heading home

As much as I love traveling, I was ready to head home. There are a couple of things to keep in mind when returning to the States.

First, most of the taxis in Dublin are the size of a Prius. If you travel with someone who packs like Beyonce (not me...my husband) then plan on extra time to find a larger cab to accommodate your luggage. We had even arranged transportation through the concierge the night before but one never came.

Second, customs. U.S. citizens flying non-stop to the States pre-clear customs in Dublin. They recommend arriving at the airport at least three hours prior to departure but we got there closer to two and a half hours and still had plenty of time. There is global entry as well.

Summary

Ireland is great. My liver is not. I can't wait to go back. Slainte!

Ahhhhh

One of the things that I am thankful for at Thanksgiving are those times when I don't have to eat the traditional Thanksgiving dinner. I hate it. All of it. Well, maybe not the sweet potatoes but just about everything else. That's why I was so excited to get away for turkey day.

We left Thanksgiving morning which is a much more civilized day to travel. Getting to Barbados is fairly easy as we just had to make one connection in Miami and from there the non-stop flight to Bridgetown was around 3 hours. Barbados is a former British colony so it's very popular with the Brits.

They do not have jet bridges upon arrival in Barbados so you have to deplane via stairs and walk across the tarmac. Do not dawdle getting off of the aircraft as customs backs up quickly with multiple flights arriving at the same time. It took us almost an hour to clear! Once through it was very easy to claim our bags and make our way to the taxi stand.

We had arranged a pick up through our hotel but it is also easy to hail a cab. Don't be thrown off when you try and get in a taxi though...Bajans drive on the left hand side of the road and the steering wheel is on the right hand side of the car. I was there five days and still forgot which side of the car to get in half of the time.

About Barbados

What are you looking at???

Barbados is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean. The east coast has large waves and is popular with experienced surfers. The west coast is called the Platinum Coast and is where most of the resorts are located because the surf is much calmer.

Barbados used to be a British colony but declared it's independence in 1966. We were there the week prior to their Independence Day celebrations and the entire island was starting to decorate. There are very few Americans and when we asked why the response was that people think that Barbados is too far away. Interesting since it takes only about 20-25 minutes longer than getting to St Thomas, USVI.

Where We Stayed

We looked at a variety of resorts but settled on The House for several reasons: 1) it is adults only; 2) it is constantly rated as one of the top resorts on the island; 3) it is directly on the beach and 4) did I mention...it is adults only.

It's a small, boutique hotel with 34 rooms and amazing service. Included in our room rate was a 30-minute welcome massage, champagne breakfast every morning (including omelette station), afternoon treats as well as tea and canapés. It is also part of the Elegant Hotel group and there is a shuttle to their other properties if you decide to check them out (we did not feel that need).

Beach at The House

The people there are all so friendly and most have worked there for years. Even more telling to us was the number of people we met who were return visitors to the hotel. One couple has been going there for over ten years!

There are water sports available and you can easily walk up and down the beach to other resorts for lunch, etc. The pool area is small but then again there are only 34 rooms at the resort. While we may not have gotten our first choice of chairs, we never had an issue finding a great place to sit during the day at either the beach or the pool.

Our favorite thing was a food and wine tasting that the chef at Daphne's did. He was funny and engaging in telling stories about his journey from Italy to London to Barbados to cook Italian food.

What We Did

Caves

We were only there for four full days so on the first day we hired a driver to take us around the island and show us the hot spots. Our favorite was Animal Flower Cave. The views are amazing and there are black bellied sheep wandering free around the property. We also visited the main surfing beach, an old windmill that sits on one of the highest points of island and saw tons of roadside bars.

Apes Hill Golf

We played golf at Apes Hill Club the next day. This is a beautiful course which is on the Platinum Coast and you can both sides of island from it's elevated location. There are rock formations and cave as well as tons of monkeys on the course which makes for even more exciting scenery.

We ate at the clubhouse and the bajan flying fish sandwich with pineapple and pepper jack cheese is to die for.

The other two days we sat our assess on the beach and did nothing. We were on vacation after all!

Where We Ate

The Tides

We had dinner at the hotel restaurant Daphne's on our first night and had a great table outside which overlooked the ocean. The food and service were both impeccable. We had pumpkin salad, lobster and chicken saltimbocca. Everything was delicious. We also had lunch there later in our trip and it was a great place to wait out a rain shower, drink some wine and have a casual lunch.

We celebrated my birthday at The Tides and it was the perfect place for the occasion. We had a table that overlooked the water allowing us to hear the waves crashing while we ate. The food was amazing and they had a surprisingly diverse wine list for a Caribbean destination.

Fusion Rooftop is....you guessed it... a rooftop restaurant. We were a little worried when we realized it was on the top floor of the local mall but as soon as we walked in we realized that our worries were unfounded. This is hip, fun restaurant that you might find in Miami instead of Barbados. They have great sushi and the calamari was exceptional. In true island fashion, our waiter was the same guy who waited on us at Daphne's during lunch.

Lone Star

Having to live in Texas, going to dinner at a place called Lone Star was the last thing we wanted to do. Our concierge assured us that there would be no cowboy boots, backwards philosophies or barbecue so off we went. This place was great. It is on the beach and feels very much like something you might find in Key West. The food as with every other place we went was great.

Because we are die hard Tarheels, we had to try and catch a UNC basketball game so we wound up Surfside Restaurant and Bar in Holetown one night. This place is the perfect beach front bar/restaurant. Food was good and the drinks were cold. What else do you need? This would be a fun place to hang out during the day.

Why You Should Go

The people, the views and the food. Go and check it out....but don't tell too many people! We don't want to ruin our little secret!!!!