Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Bodega Bay


Wait…where are we again?
After time in San Francisco and a thorough tour of the wineries last summer, we headed to Bodega Bay for some R&R!  It gets ungodly hot in Dallas in July so we were anxious to spend some time on the coast with (hopefully) cooler temperatures.  

I had never heard of Bodega Bay and wasn't sure what to expect.  I was very surprised at what I found because it felt more like Ireland or Scotland than California.  The temperatures weren't cooler….it was downright cold!  The skies were overcast when we arrived and they had a fire going in the lodge at check-in.  In other words, I was in heaven!

The Lodge
We stayed at Bodega Bay Lodge, which is a very nice, laid back, cozy resort.  It reminds me of the Lodge at Torrey Pines.  While it overlooks the water, it isn’t exactly oceanfront because you have to walk around some marshland to get to the beach.  The rooms were great and ours had a fireplace. 

You are somewhat limited in dining options in this area.  We ate at the resort one night for dinner and the food was good.   They have a large fire pit outside of the restaurant, which is great for after dinner drinks.  They also supply blankets, which were definitely needed. 

Fire pit at Bodega Bay Lodge
The resort has a heated pool and a “spa”.  The pool was a popular place with the kids and the spa was really just two rooms that they used for treatments.  There was not sauna, steam room, etc. 

Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds” was filmed in Bodega Bay so everything in town seems to have a bird theme to it.  There are a couple of pockets of stores and restaurants but you can cover all of it in a couple of hours. 

Visiting Bodega Head and Doran Beach is the best way to spend your time.  There are some great hiking trails and amazing views over the cliffs.  It’s about a ten-minute drive from the hotel. 
Bodega Head

On your way back to Bodega Bay Lodge, stop at Gourmet au Bay.  It is a waterfront wine bar that focuses on small production, award winning, 90+ point wines.  Watching the sun go down with a glass of wine on their deck is the perfect end to the day. 

Jenner, California is about a thirty-minute drive north and is worth checking out. 

Cafe Aquatica
Café Aquatica is an awesome café that serves organic, non-GMO made items for breakfast and lunch.  They have a great patio that overlooks the water and when we were there an acoustic duo was playing.  It felt like a walk back in time and I half expected to see Jerry Garcia or Joan Baez  walk by.  

River's End
We went to River’s End Restaurant for dinner and this place was amazing.  They have great views of where the Russian River dumps into the Pacific Ocean (hence the name).  It’s a quaint place built into the side of the cliffs so if you aren’t paying attention, it can be very easy to miss.  Parking is also a bitch so be extra careful or you'll go over the cliff!  This place is a must if you find yourself in this area but a word to the wise…..the roads are very dark and windy at night!

Bodega Bay was a place that I had never heard of prior before our trip but I sure am glad we checked it out.  I couldn't spend days here and I'm not sure it's a place I'd recommend going as a stand alone trip but if you find yourself "wined" out after Napa and Sonoma, it's the perfect place.  


Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Napa and Sonoma

Several years ago, we formed a wine club with several other couples.  We try to get together every other month and we rotate hosting duties with the host choosing the varietal for the evening.  Everyone brings a bottle and we have a blind tasting to determine the winner.  Over the years, we have had some great wine as well as our fair share of swill so it was only natural that we spend a few days conducting some "research" in Napa and Sonoma following a work event in San Francisco last summer.  
Jackass

Getting there

We rented a car downtown at the car rental location directly across the street from the Hilton Union Square.  Most of the major rental companies can be found here so it is a very popular location.  As a result, the wait to pick up your car can be lengthy (especially first thing in the morning) so plan accordingly. Since it was a weekday we weren't sure what to expect regarding traffic so we left the city around 7:45 to allow plenty of time to meet our group at 10 a.m.  Getting through the city was fairly easy and other than the jackass who did a U-turn on the Golden Gate Bridge thus triggering every fear I didn't realize that I had, traffic flowed easily and the drive took just under an hour and a half.

Lodging - Napa

We were only going to be in Napa for one night so we chose a downtown hotel as home base.  The Andaz Napa is located in the middle of town and was perfect.  It's a Hyatt property but felt much more like an independent, boutique hotel without costing an arm and a leg.  We arrived in the morning and to our very pleasant surprise were allowed to check in upon arrival. (Note:  If you stay here and want to have "sexy time", please close your shades!!!  I cannot un-see what I saw from across the courtyard when I checked out our room view upon check in….).  It is a full service hotel (insert smirk here due to previous sentence) with a restaurant and bar as well as a patio with a fire pit and bar service.  The fire pit is a great place for post winery, pre-dinner cocktails. 

Napa Wineries

Everyone in our group had been to Napa multiple times so our plan was to visit some of the smaller production, higher end (a.k.a. less touristy) vineyards.  Since the three we chose were spread out across the area and because we are responsible adults (most of the time), we hired a driver.  We made reservations at each in advance although you can stop by the tasting room at Corley Family Vineyards without a one.  After taking a solemn oath to not join a single wine club, we were off!

Monticello Vineyards
Monticello Vineyards - the Corley family has roots in Virginia and the connection to Thomas Jefferson is apparent as soon as you see the main building, a replica of Monticello.  We were lucky enough to have one of the Corley brothers as our guide for a private tasting.  We started in the vineyards and made our way to the terrace for our first tasting of the day where we sampled Chardonnay, Cabernet, Pinot Noir and Syrah.  Really, this is the only civilized way to start your day!  We've been there multiple times and are members of their wine club and it continues to be one of our favorites overall.  

Lunch at Frias
Frias Family Vineyards - this is small, family owned vineyard on Spring Mountain, which only offers tastings and tours, by appointment.  Some members of our wine club are friends with the Frias brothers and we had an amazing lunch at the top of the hill overlooking their property.  The wine was delicious, especially their Rose.  I can't wait until they get their tasting room finished.  The property is absolutely gorgeous!

Jarvis Caves
Jarvis - we did the cave tour here and it was amazing!  I've done cave tours at Rutherford (very nice but fairly simple) and Del Dotto (which we renamed Del Blotto since you drink close to a half a bottle of wine during your tasting by using a wine thief to sample the wine straight from the barrel) but Jarvis is my favorite.  It is beautifully decorated with lots of waterfalls.  You have to book it in advance and they limit the number of people each day so keep that in mind.  It's $60 for the tour/tasting but it is worth every penny (and frankly Jarvis wines aren't for you if you complain about the fee).  

Dining - Napa
End of Day 1:  
Why to hire a driver

After a day of tastings and pre-dinner cocktails at the hotel, we went to Redd restaurant for dinner.  As I vaguely recall it was fun and the food was good.  

Sonoma wineries

Day two was less structured and much calmer because we were going to be driving to Bodega Bay in the afternoon.  

Domaine Carneros - we started the day here.  They are known for their sparkling wines and the property looks like a beautiful French Chateau.  We did the tour (along with about fifty other people) but it is not worth the time unless you really want to relive the feeling of grade school field trips including the teacher constantly reprimanding people for talking.  I'd recommend having lunch on their patio instead.  


Kunde Mountaintop Tasting
B.R. Cohn - after leaving Domaine Carneros we had no idea where to go for lunch.  One of the couples recommended B.R. Cohn because they have a gourmet store and a picnic lunch sounded awesome.   The gourmet store and the wine tasting room are in two separate buildings.  As walked between them we realized that there is a large natural amphitheater in the back.  The winery is owned by the manager for the Doobie Brothers so in addition to having great wine there is some very cool rock memorabilia hanging on the walls.  They also have a music festival each fall which is now on our wish list.  Check it out.  

Kunde - they have a great gift store and beautiful garden to enjoy some outdoor sipping.  More importantly, they have some of the highest vineyards in Sonoma so we made an afternoon reservation for the mountain top tasting.  We got there at exactly 3pm for our 3pm tour.  Even though our group comprise eight of the 12 people on the tour, they bus had already left.  After a slight meltdown by someone in our group the eight of us were headed up the mountain.  They have a built a small area for tasting and the views are amazing.  Seth Rogen had his wedding here several years ago and I can definitely see why.  


Imagery - this is a fun winery if you like art in addition to wine.  They actually use some of the paintings as the labels for their wines.  It's a unique departure from the typical vineyard.  In my opinion, the wines aren't as good as some of the others but I would check it out if you are in the area.  

Summary

Napa and Sonoma is one place that I can visit again and again because there are so many new places to explore and discover every time.   We had a great time in the wine country and stuck to our pledge to not join a single wine club.  In fact, we joined three!  

Previous visits



We've been to Napa and Sonoma several times so here are some thoughts and suggestions on other places we've visited:


  • Robert Sinskey - one of our all time favorites.  Organic winery where the owners wife is a renowned chef so there is always amazing food to taste alongside the wines.
  • Del Dotto - take the cave tour but make sure you sign up for the last one of the day.  The caves are transformed from old school Italy to a 70's nightclub at the end.
  • Hall Wines - one of the most reliable Cabernet's you'll find, the tasting room is a good spot to visit.
  • Francis Ford Coppolla Winery - if you like his movies this is a must.  
  • Vi Sattui - the wines aren't anything out of the ordinary but they have a great market with lots of outdoor sitting space for a picnic.
  • Opus One - cool tasting room but bring your wallet….a taste is around $40
  • Sterling Vineyards - you take a tram to the top of a "mountain" for the tour and tasting as well as cool views of the valley.  
  • Duckhorn - great wines, elegant tasting room in a beautiful setting.  You can't go wrong here.  
  • Kendall Jackson - skip it unless you love going to Busch Gardens and touring the brewery
  • Michel - Schlumberger - off the beaten path in Sonoma but worthwhile
  • Frank Family - former Disney exec turned winemaker, great cabernet.  
UPDATE
Venge Vineyard Dog

Last spring we headed back to Napa for a "work" retreat.  We visited some truly amazing wineries:

Venge Vineyards - Advance reservations are needed in order to visit their ranch house. Beautiful setting, great wine and the house dog is a golden retriever....need I say more?

Blackbird 
Blackbird - Great wines in an eclectic farmhouse setting.  Everything in the farmhouse is for sale...not just the wines.

Continuum Estate - Tim Mondavi's high end winery atop Pritchard Hill.  Beautiful views and needless to say...great wines.

B Cellars - Pricy for a visit if you aren't a wine enthusiast but well worth every penny.  They have
amazing art on the grounds.  Just make sure you don't try and take a nap next to the statues...I can't get into details but they frown upon that sort of thing!
Alpha Omega

Terra Valentine - Sam and Angela Baxter don't have their tasting room open yet but their property is going to be amazing when it does open.  However, if you join their wine club you can hike their property.

Alpha Omega - Great cabernets in a festive setting.  Larger crowds than many of the others mentioned above but still worth a stop.

Mumm - Meh.  Much better options in the valley.

Tamber Bey - Located on an equestrian ranch this is a much different stop than most.  The rose is one of my fav's and the scenery is beautiful with the horses right outside of the tasting rooms.
Tamber Bey
B Cellars Cave


Sunday, August 17, 2014

A Unicorn in Canada

St. Michael's Anglican Church
If someone told you that unicorns existed you would probably want to see it for yourself… right?  Well, that’s how we felt when we found out that our good friend the eternal bachelor was getting married.  The wedding was going to be in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario so off to Canada we went so we could see it unfold firsthand!

Getting there

The first thing we had to do was figure out exactly where Niagara on the Lake was.  It’s a good thing Walt waited to get married after Al Gore invented the internet because a quick search of Google and Wikipedia showed us that Niagara-on-the-Lake is in Southern Ontario Canada.  It’s located where the Niagara River meets Lake Ontario and is directly across the river from Youngstown, New York. 

Toronto and Buffalo are the two closest major airports and there are pros and cons to both.  With Toronto, it’s easier to find direct flights and you clear customs at the airport but it is more expensive (about $150 more per person for our trip).  Buffalo typically requires a connection and you have to clear customs at the border but it is usually a cheaper option.    

The non-stop flight and the fact that we would not wind up in Buffalo sealed the deal so we got our tickets to Toronto.  (Buffalo friends….I know it is beautiful during the summer….I still love you J!) 

Toronto
Toronto from above

Flying in, Toronto looks a lot like Chicago because it’s a big city on a really big lake.  Going through customs is super easy and the rental car agencies are on-site which is a nice change from the Rental Shuttles we’ve become used to in the States (anyone who has rented a car at Phoenix Sky Harbor knows what I’m talking about…). 

The airport is 20-30 minutes outside of the city and driving there is no different than driving in the States.  We opted to avoid Gardiner Expressway and took Lake Shore Boulevard into the city because it was more scenic (that and I missed the split in the road to stay on the Expressway but it turned out for the best because Gardiner was a parking lot). 

View from Westin Harbour Castle
Because we don’t have any large bodies of water remotely near Dallas, we opted to stay on the lake at the Westin Harbour Castle.  While it is definitely an older hotel (read dated and a little musty in places), it was fine for one night.  We had a corner view junior suite that overlooked the lake and the Toronto Island Airport.  We had a drink at the restaurant/lounge on the 38th floor that offers panoramic views of the city but I wouldn’t make a special trip here unless you are staying at the Westin. 

Drake One Fifty
Where I would make a special trip is to the restaurant where we had dinner, Drake One Fifty.  Located in the Financial District it was the perfect balance of cool, hip chef oriented cuisine without taking itself too seriously.  When your cocktail menu has creations like Cats Pajamas and Unicorn Dynamite (I’m sensing a theme here!), it has to be good.  They have a large bar area as well as the doors that open to the patio during good weather.  They also have a D.J. that played an amazing variety of music the night we were there.  We had vegetarians and carnivores at our table and everyone said their food was great.  I wish we had something like this in Dallas. 

While the Canadian Dollar is the local currency, cabs and most businesses take U.S. money.  The exchange rate is close to 1:1 with the CAD being slightly lower so they actually like getting U.S. money because they make a few cents on it depending on the daily rate.  Getting a taxi is easy in the main part of downtown and Uber is also in Toronto.  

We wanted to get to Niagara-on-the-Lake by lunchtime so we left the city around 9 a.m. the next day.   Driving in Toronto is pretty easy with two exceptions.  You can’t make a left hand turn before 10 am (which is insanely frustrating) and every major road is under construction.  Despite those challenges, we made it out of the city and were on our way. 

Niagara-on-the-Lake

NOTL Downtown
Traffic on Thursday morning was heavy getting out of Toronto so it took us close to two hours to get there.  The drive was very scenic because the region surrounding Niagara-on-the-Lake (NOTL) is a major agricultural and viticulture region (a.k.a. WINERIES!!!).  There are fresh fruit and vegetable stands lining the highway as you make your way into town and reminded me of summers in N.C. on our way to the beach. 

NOTL has a beautiful main street lined with shops and restaurants.  There is also a main square, which is a beautiful park with several fountains for people to cool off in.  The flowers were in full bloom and the whole town looked like a movie set.  We were there for the peach festival, which was awesome since that is my absolute favorite fruit.  It was like the Bubba Gump of street festivals….peach cobbler, peach tarts, peach smoothies, peach jam, peach on a stick, you get the picture.
Peach Festival!

Niagara-on-the-LakeGolf Club is the oldest golf course in North America.  It’s located on the point so you get great views on each of the nine holes.  There is also a restaurant at the clubhouse with a patio that looks out over the river to Youngstown, NY.  It’s a great spot for lunch even if you don’t give a flip about golf. 

We stayed at Prince of Wales Hotel in the center of town.  It is very old and quaint but the rooms are very nice.  The bathrooms are updated and the rooms were spacious.  There is a great bar and they serve afternoon tea.  If you stay and are lucky enough to get a room with a tall four poster bed, they have a cute little step stool that is placed at the foot of the bed.  

NOTL Golf Club Patio
Yes, all of the flowers look like this!
That is it's cute until your husband  slams his toe into it on day three of our trip claiming he had never seen it (even though it hadn't moved the entire time until he threw it across the room).  There really aren't words to describe the feeling you have when your husband breaks his toe five hours before a wedding in which he is a groomsman.  At this point it becomes a covert mission to get it iced and elevated and your husband medicated so that he can just get down the aisle and back before the bride knows anything is wrong!   

In all seriousness, we would definitely stay at Prince of Wales again but there are other great lodging alternatives.  Several people stayed at the Queens Landing hotel, which overlooks the marina.  There is a great patio area for lunch or cocktails.  There are also lots of very cute Bed & Breakfasts within walking distance of everything. 
Queen's Landing Patio

In the downtown area itself, there are not that many restaurants but there are a lot more within a quick five-minute drive.  Most of our meals were in conjunction with the wedding but we did go to dinner one night at Ristorante Giardino at the Gate House Hotel.  There is large patio, which was very crowded but because of the size of our party and the last minute reservation we were seated inside.  The service was not great and the food was okay.  My guess is that this is a better place to enjoy a leisurely afternoon lunch or to go to with a smaller party. 

Even the squirrels are pretty!
If shopping and looking at beautiful old homes aren't your thing there are also jet boat trips that leave from NOTL that several people in our group raved about.  You apparently go very fast and get very wet which was popular with the kids (both young and old). 

The town sometimes gets pegged with the nickname “Viagra-on-the-Lake” because of its sleepy nature and older resident population.  Things do shut down fairly early but sometimes that’s not a bad thing. 
  
Wineries

Winner:  Best use
of old wine barrel
Ravine Vineyards
Most of the wineries are located very close to one another which makes it easy to visit several in one day and is therefore very efficient!  They are known for their ice wines in this region but also have other varietals such as Chardonnay, Cabernet and Pinot Noir.  According to the locals, this area does not get the lake effect winters that their neighbors in Buffalo get which makes it more conducive for grape growing. 

The first winery we visited was Ravine Vineyards for lunch.  It’s about ten minutes out of Niagara-on-the-Lake and has a great authentic farmhouse feel to it.  They have a big outdoor lawn with ping pong tables and outdoor dining.  The place was packed when we were there so I’d recommend calling ahead.  

Baby Doll Sheep at Southbrook
Southbrook Vineyards was our next stop and it is one of the overall coolest wineries I’ve ever been too.  They create artisanal organic wines and the winery is LEED certified.  Their Poetica Cabernet Merlot was my favorite.  Their wines are very reasonable and are in the $20 - $50 range and you can do a tasting of four wines for $10.  They take this environmental stuff so seriously that they have Baby Doll Sheep that help to keep the fields cut.  The people who work there are great.  Ask for Graham if you go. 

Stratus Vineyards was our next stop and it is clearly the best funded.  The winery is very modern and stark with its black, white and gray décor.  There is a great sitting area outside that overlooks the vines.  They also have some great food and culinary items in their gift shop.  My favorite was the Malbec and the prices here are higher than other places starting around $25 and going way up from there.  They also offer a tasting of four wines for $10. 
Stratus Vineyards

Both of the previous vineyards allowed you to purchase a glass of wine to enjoy if you did not want to partake in a full tasting.  Lailey Vineyards apparently does not have the proper licensing for this which meant that the people who didn’t want to do a tasting had to just watch the rest of us.  They also charge differently for their tastings in that it is either $1 or $2 per taste.  The wines were not as strong as Southbrook or Stratus and their tasting room is also just a small shed. 

Wine tasting is exhausting!
Dessert tasting at Inniskillin
Inniskillin was the last stop on our tasting tour.  They are clearly the most commercial winery in the area as it was similar to going to Beringer or Kendall Jackson in California.  They are known for their ice wines.  I generally find ice wines to be too sweet but they had a sparkling ice wine that I liked.  Of course, it was $120 a bottle and I’m not going to spend that on anything but a good Cabernet! 

The rehearsal dinner was held at Trius Vineyards.  They are located on the road leading into Niagara-on-the-Lake so it’s very easy to find.  We had a great room that looked out over the vineyards.  There is also a lot of outdoor seating for the restaurant.  The food was very good.  In fact there was a unicorn roast (ok, it was just the groomsman roasting the groom but I had to keep with the theme!)  

Niagara Falls

Panoramic view of the Falls
I’m not usually a big fan of large crowds in touristy places but how can you be this close and not go to Niagara Falls?  Unfortunately, we waited until Sunday to visit so it was very crowded.  You can visit from either the U.S. or Canadian side but we chose the Canadian side (since we already in Canada…duh). 
Howdy Folks!

It’s easy to find.  All you have to do is look for the huge hotels and casino signs rising about the trees and you will know you are close.  Visiting the falls is not for the lazy as parking is a 10 minute walk from the falls and another 15 minute walk to the boats that will take you right up to the falls (Hornblower is the Canadian boat). 

Hornblower Cruise (yes, that
really is a boat)
There is a tourist center at the end of the parking lot where you can sign up for tours, watch a movie and take an elevator behind the falls.   Tickets for the Hornblower boat ride have to be purchased at the dock.  Before you stand in line for 20 minutes to purchase boat tickets, check to see what departure time they are selling.  Even though we were there before 12pm, they were already selling the 2pm time slot.  Because we were flying out that night we did not get to go on the boat. 

Since the boat ride was out, we did the next best thing.  We had lunch at the outdoor patio restaurant overlooking the falls.  Food in places like this usually consists of cardboard pizza and gelatinous nachos but we were pleasantly surprised. 
Restaurant at Niagara Falls

After lunch, it was time to head back to Toronto to catch our flight.  Luckily, the airport is between NOTL and the city so it only took us about an hour and a half to get back. 

Traveling Home

Important note, if you rent a car in Toronto make sure you know what terminal you are departing from BEFORE you get to the airport.  There are two separate rental car locations, one at each terminal.  If you do happen to wind up at the wrong one, they very nicely let you back out of the parking lot and direct you to the right location. 

Every airline and airport advises travelers to be at the airport at least two hours prior to international departures.  In Canada this is really important because U.S. Citizens pre-clear customs in Canada and it takes time.  I watched them turn back a guy who was at customs under an hour prior to his departure because they said he didn’t have time. 

Once you check in with your airline, you will be directed to U.S. Customs.  They have automated kiosks now so you don’t need a customs form if you have a U.S. Passport.  The bubble gum chewing guy monitoring the entrance apparently couldn’t be bothered to tell us that so it took a large group of us a few minutes to figure this out.   The machines are super easy to use.  All you do is insert your passport, answer a few questions and have your picture taken at the kiosk.   A paper ticket will be printed out and you take that and your passport and continue through immigration.

(Note:  this is different from the Global Entry Program.  There are different lines and machines for people enrolled in that program.  I would let you know how works but my appointment to finalize my GOES application was not until the day AFTER I got back from Canada.  Typical.)

Summary

Overall, this trip was amazing.  The bride and groom got married, we ate lunch outside in August (this is a very big deal if you live in Texas) and we shared some good food, good wine and great fun with friends old and new.