The Streets of San Francisco - 2013

When you live in Dallas, TX, there is only one thing to do during the summer.  Leave.  So, we packed our bags and headed west in late July.  First stop, six days in San Francisco.  

Getting There

We flew into San Francisco International Airport (SFO) because it's closer to downtown.  You may be able to find cheaper flights into Oakland or San Jose but you could pay more for ground transportation unless you are willing to try BART (their mass transport system) or Super Shuttle (which will inevitably stop at every other hotel in the city before dropping you off at yours).  

Where We Stayed

Once again, we were traveling in conjunction with a conference so we stayed at the host hotel which was the Hilton Union Square.  Overall, it was a good location because of it's proximity to restaurants and shopping.  Our room was on the 34th floor and we could see the Golden Gate Bridge when the fog wasn't too thick.  One downside about this hotel is that it backs up to the Tenderloin District.  If you aren't familiar with this area, suffice it to say it's not a place you want to visit unless you are a heroin addict or a hooker.  

The Hilton is mainly a convention hotel so the lobby can be slammed in the morning and evenings. This can create havoc at the cab line around dinner time and at the Starbucks in the morning so plan accordingly.    

I've stayed at the Westin St. Francis on previous visits to the city.  It is certainly a more charming hotel than the big chain Hilton but the rooms can be very small.  

Getting Around

Like most big cities, cabs are everywhere but can be hard to hail depending on time, location and weather.  Luckily, there are many different options other than the bus.

My favorite is Uber which is an app you download for your smart phone that allows you to request and pay for a car online.  When you need a ride, just click your app and you can see what cars are available in your area.  For just a few dollars more than a cab, you can request an SUV, a town car or Uber X which is smaller car like a Prius or other hybrid.  It's great when there is a crowd or weather.  Needless to say, we got more than a few dirty looks from folks in the cab line at the hotel when we walked out and immediately got in our Uber ride each night!

You can also take Lyft which is an on demand ride sharing service which is also booked via an app on your smart phone.  We never used it but the Lyft cars are easily identifiable thanks to the giant pink mustache on the front grill (yep, you read that right).

What We Did

Haight Ashbury - Hendrix House

After years of thinking I was too cool for stuff like this, I've become a big fan of the "Hop On/Off Bus Tours" you can find in most large cities.  Our first afternoon we took the Gray Line tour which picks up right outside of the Hilton, takes less than three hours and hits most of the main sights in the city.  It also takes you across the Golden Gate Bridge which provides great views of the city on the way out of town.  On the way back to the city though, it is freezing ass cold on the top deck of the open air bus as you cross back over the bridge!

Sea Lions

It doesn't get much more touristy than Pier 39 but it's worth checking out if you have never been to San Francisco.  There are a bunch of restaurants and stores to browse through and you get great views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz.  The Aquarium is also located nearby.  You can also see sea lions sunning on the docks.  It's amazing how long you can watch these creatures try and knock one another into the water.  Everything from bottled water to sunscreen is much more expensive in the Pier area so keep that in mind.

We were in town during baseball season so we headed to AT&T Park for a Giants game.  The stadium is on the water and so you get some great breezes which means it can be a bit chilly in the shade.  The food and beer selection at the ballpark is much better than what we have in Texas.  Craft beers, calamari and shrimp at a baseball game definitely made the game worthwhile.  If you go to a day game, grab a drink on Momo's patio (located across King street from the park) after the game for some great people watching.

America's Cup Pavillion

The Louis Vuitton Cup was taking place when we were in town.  This is the qualifying race for the Americas Cup so part of the downtown waterfront had been renovated to host the America's Cup Pavillion.  In addition to a large store, there were a lot of restaurant and lounge areas as well as an amphitheater which is hosting some great acts this summer and fall.  An added bonus was seeing the yacht owned by the founder of Oracle.  The America's Cup runs through September so if you are in the city during this time frame definitely check it out.  Those boats define the term "bad ass".

Oracle CEO's "boat"

We went to an event at the Exploratorium which is a museum of science with lots of interactive exhibits and displays.  If you have kids it would be a fun way to spend an afternoon.  Even if you don't have kids it's worth checking out.  Although to be fair, we were there for a closed event (i.e. no kids) and we had cocktail service so that may have tempered our opinion a bit!

If you are into shopping, you don't have to venture far from Union Square.  Neimans, Nordstrom, Macy's and more all line Union square.

Where We Ate

Lunch

Johnny Foley's Irish Pub & Restaurant is a better than average pub and a good choice for lunch if you are looking for something near Union Square but not in the middle of everything.  Another decent lunch choice is Jasper's Corner Tap which is located in the Serrano Hotel.  The french fries here are out of this world and look like they would be great choice if you had been out late the night before.

If you are looking for a great "ladies who lunch" place, then the Rotunda at Neiman Marcus is it.  Yes, you will pay over $20 for a small plate of lettuce but it's really not about value at Neiman's is it?  No, it's all about the experience.  The Rotunda is located on the fourth floor and has an amazing ceiling and overlooks the main entry way of the store.

Dinner

On our first night we were looking for something fun and casual but with good food and drinks.  Burritt Room + Tavern definitely hit the mark.  It is part of Charlie Palmer's group of restaurants and is located in the Mystic Hotel, a few blocks up from Union Square.  We opted for an early dinner and when we arrived around 6 pm, there was a trio playing in the bar for happy hour.  They have craft cocktails including the "Pick Your Poison" option where you give them your choice of spirit and an idea of what flavors you like and they create something for you.  I had the steak and my husband had the pappardelle and it was a toss up as to which was better.

North Beach is the place to go for Italian food in San Francisco.  I have found that restaurants located a couple of blocks off the main drag are better and that is definitely what we found at Vicoletto.  Its a small restaurant with a modern feel.  The zucchini and meatball appetizers were so good and so fresh and the rolled lasagna is a must have.  The owner is from Italy and it felt like we were visiting his home rather than his place of business.  There are also some great wine choices that won't break your budget.

View from Slanted Door patio

The Slanted Door is a San Francisco staple.  Located in Ferry Building #3 you get great views of the light show on the Bay Bridge in the evening.  There are some great shops in the ferry building so go a little early and do some shopping.  I've been to Slanted Door several times and have never had anything I didn't like.  Everything is family style so just let your server guide your journey.  Don't miss the lychee cotton candy for dessert though.  Even if you don't like cotton candy, it's worth the price to see the presentation.

Dinner at the Waterfront Restaurant is a great choice if you are looking to dine overlooking the water.  It also has a great view of the Bay Bridge but unlike the Slanted Door, it is a standalone restaurant.  The menu has a good balance between seafood and meat and the casual yet elegant ambiance is a nice change from most of the more touristy restaurants you will find near Pier 39.

Nightlife

Pandora Karaoke bar was a post dinner stop one night.  The music and accompanying videos were so bad that they were awesome.  Remember the K-Tel commercials featuring the generic couple walking hand in hand by the lake?  Well, they live on in the music videos found at Pandora.  Whether it's singing or making fun at those who are singing, anyone can have fun at a karaoke bar.  Of course, the law of inverse proportions has never been illustrated more clearly...the worse a person sings, the louder he or she will sing.  The secret to a successful visit is two-fold:  make sure at least one other person is drinking more than you and make sure you are the one video taping your friends, not the other way around.

Travolta

Chambers at the Phoenix Hotel is definitely a hot spot but it is on the edge of the Tenderloin district.  The setting is very cool and has a distinct rock'n'roll vibe.  It felt like I was part of a scene in Almost Famous while we were sitting out by the courtyard pool.  If you go, take Uber and have them drop you off in front.  When you leave, don't hang out on the street.  Wait inside for your Uber driver to call you.

If you are looking for someplace where you are less likely to get shot, The Redwood Room at the Clift Hotel is a great spot.  It has redwood paneling and just feels cool (the hotel is owned by the same group that has the Delano in South Beach and the Mondrian in LA).  We actually saw John Travolta the night we were there.  The bar turns into more of a club later in the evening so keep that in mind depending on what you are up for.

Our trip out west was off to a great start.  Next stop:  Napa, Sonoma and Bodega Bay

Santa Fe, NM - Feathers, Leather and Chiles....Oh My!

I love visiting and learning about new places but sometimes revisiting a city can be just as much fun.  That why I was excited when my husband had a conference in Santa Fe, NM this past spring.  It had been over ten years since my last visit and I was excited to reintroduce myself to the city.   

We were there over the weekend and I was happy to see that it’s still a charming yet lazy place with a lot of character and history.  The weather in May was perfect and while there were people around, nothing was too crowded.  However, I was a little surprised to find a large population of skateboarders zipping in and around the tourists near the Plaza.   I saw more than one near miss over the weekend which was not something I was expecting to encounter. 

Getting there

There are two main ways to get to Santa Fe.  Most people fly into Albuquerque and rent a car because the one-hour drive is easy.  However, AA had recently announced non-stop service from DFW so we opted to fly directly into Santa Fe.  

There is one important difference when you fly directly into Santa Fe.  American Eagle (not American Airlines) provides the service and they fly small planes.  The small 40 person regional jets with the tape recorded safety announcements that conjure up images of Charlie Brown.  If you aren’t familiar with flying in and out of mountain locations, let me introduce you to a very important travel formula:

Small planes + turbulent mountain air = years off your life

Despite some serious doubts on my part about our arrival, we finally landed.  To say the airport is small is an understatement.  When you deplane, you enter into the “main terminal” through a small door.  The luggage carousel located immediately inside is really just a table with some rollers on it (you know, the kind the TSA uses to put your luggage on before it gets radiated.  Maybe they got a good deal when the TSA had budget cutbacks).  When luggage is delivered, they simply open a window and push the luggage down the table.  I hadn’t seen a terminal like that since Wings was on T.V. in the early nineties.  

It’s about twenty-five minutes from the airport to downtown.  There are a few car rental options including one or two you have likely heard of.  There is also a shuttle service which is to airport shuttles what Wings was to airplane travel.  For example, when we were booking our reservation our driver had to ask for money out of petty cash so that he could stop for gas.

Where We Stayed

La Posada Lobby

We stayed a few blocks off of the Plaza La Posada de Santa Fe.  It is a great location and feels like Santa Fe….it has a historic lobby, a saloon style bar and a great patio with an outdoor fireplace, which was perfect for the cool New Mexico evenings.   The property is laid out casita style with a couple of main rooms in the main building and a great lawn in between which hosts all kinds of events. 

Our room was located in the main building and was huge.  It had a sitting area, walk in closet, full size bath, shower and bidet.  Yes, bidet.  Who knew the Pueblos were such fans of the French?  Overall the room was fine but everything was extremely old and worn (which in my book is much different from charming).

Yes, this picture is from our
 trip to Santa Fe, not Paris

Our room was also located directly upstairs from the bar.  This made finding our room after a few cocktails much easier.  Unfortunately, it also meant that we felt like were still part of all of the action because of the noise level.

The bottom line is that La Posada is a nice resort with perfectly acceptable accommodations.  However, if you are looking for a luxury hotel, I would encourage you to look elsewhere.  The Four Seasons recently opened a property and La Fonda has undergone fairly extensive reservations. 

Restaurants

There are some great restaurants in Santa Fe….as long as you like green chile, tortillas or cumin.   That’s not really my thing but there are still some fun places to try. 

We ate twice at Café Pasqual, a local institution.  Dinner was good, not great. Although we had reservations, our party was seated an hour late.  They only have one table for a large group and since the people with the early reservation opted for an extensive visit over coffee, we had to split our group in two.  In such a small restaurant it would have been nice if they would have at least let the other table know that there was another group waiting.  Maybe the handling of this situation left a bad taste in my mouth (pun intended) but I thought the food at dinner was average.  

Cafe Pasqual - easy to miss
if you aren't careful

Brunch was another story.  A last minute decision, we went without reservations and had to wait about 45 minutes for our table.  There is a great little coffee shop next door to Pasqual’s where we grabbed a cup of coffee while we waited.  The food at brunch was fresher and tastier than dinner.  Try the breakfast quesadilla or huevos barbacoa and you won’t be disappointed.  

The Shed on Palace Avenue is a great spot for lunch.  It is in the middle of the historic area and has a small courtyard and is great for a Saturday mid-day cocktail.  The food is traditional New Mexico cuisine but they also have a good selection of salads and burgers.  

If you are looking for a green chile alternative, try dinner at La Casa Sena.  They have a great outdoor courtyard as well as an elegantly casual dining room.  The menu still tends toward Southwestern but not as overtly as most other spots in town.  For example, I had the halibut which was paired with quinoa, slaw and had a sweet glaze.

To Do

If you are into silver, turquoise, moccasins, Native American art, bronze and anything with feathers, downtown Santa Fe is definitely for you.  There are a ton of gift shops and clothing stores (including chains like Chico’s) in the Plaza area.  The gift shops are heavy in New Mexico culture and the clothing stores have a focus on all natural fibers and sustainability.  

To truly appreciate Santa Fe, you need to go gallery hopping on Canyon Road.   There are some quaint galleries for the average sized budget as well as opportunities to drop five to six figures on some art.  It's fun to spend a couple of hours simply wandering through the galleries and talking to the locals.  

Several people in our group visiting Ten Thousand Waves which is a spa fashioned after a Japanese spring resort.  The reviews were good but I personally prefer a more traditional resort spa.  

Finally, if you are looking for a big nightlife scene, Santa Fe is probably not the place for you.  While there are a couple of bars, most of the town shuts down early. 

In Summary

Santa Fe is a city like no other in the U.S. and everyone should go at least once if they have an opportunity.  The key is figuring out how long to stay.  For me, two days was more than enough time to get a feel for the town.  For others who have a greater appreciation for art and the Southwest, a longer stay may be in order. 

Santa Barbara



Sunset in Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara had been on my travel wish list for years so it's ironic that I went twice within a four month period of time.  One was for a work trip with my husband (a.k.a. boondoggle) in the spring and the other was for a girl's getaway in late summer. 

Getting there

On my first trip, I flew in and out of LAX and drove to Santa Barbara.  Driving from LAX to Santa Barbara takes about an hour and a half on a good day.  If you have been to Southern California, you know that good days don't come along that often.

We took the scenic route up the Pacific Coast Highway through Santa Monica, Malibu and Oxnard.  There are lots of great little places to stop and have lunch on the way like Gladstones and Duke's but on this trip we stopped at Paradise Cove.  It's your garden variety beachfront restaurant where you can get a cold beer and put your feet in the sand.  It seems to be just as popular with the seagulls through so if you order something you really like, watch out because they are aggressive.

It's good to be a dog in SoCal

I chose to fly for the second trip.  The plan was perfect.  I was going to leave DFW in the morning, make a quick connection at LAX and I would be in Santa Barbara in time for lunch.  After a scorching Texas summer, I could not wait to get to 75 degree weather and an ocean.

Unfortunately,I learned one very important lesson on this trip.  If your flight to LAX is delayed and you miss your connection, you are screwed.  American Eagle flies smaller planes on this popular route which means it is often overbooked.  So instead of lunch with the girls, I spent five hours in the LAX airport (actually the trailer that AA calls it's "satellite terminal") waiting to get on a plane.

Santa Barbara is less than 100 miles from LA so I could have driven there and back in the time I spent at the airport.  You may ask "Well, why didn't you just rent a car and drive" but I was in a no win situation.  If you don't travel much or make many connections, you may not realize that if you cancel or don't show up for one leg of your travel plans, the airline will typically cancel the rest of your itinerary.  If you actually do the right thing and call them to let them know you are not going to make a certain flight, they will charge you a change fee which is usually around $150 depending on the airline.  

Where We Stayed

The Four Seasons



On the first trip, we stayed at the Four Seasons the night before the conference began and it lived up to every bit of its reputation.  It is really in Montecito and the hotel is located across the street from the water.  There is a beach club and restaurant located on the water.  The hotel is comprised mainly of cottages and the walkways that wind around the property instill a sense of complete privacy. 



Four Seasons entrance

The main building and the bar are Spanish inspired and are very warm and inviting.  There is an outside area with a view of the water where you can enjoy cocktails on the veranda.  They also have bikes you can rent to ride into Montecito or down to the waterfront of Santa Barbara.

The hotel is a ten minute walk from downtown Montecito which is home to great little art galleries and stores.  For breakfast, check out Jeannine's bakery.  It has a great selection of breakfast items ranging from homemade pastries to healthy, organic omelets.  It's quite the hot spot on weekend mornings so be prepared to wait a few minutes to be seated.

If you choose to eat off property, it is a ten or fifteen minute car ride to downtown Santa Barbara.  We ate dinner at Bouchon which was amazing.  It is a very intimate restaurant the features amazing locally grown food.  If the weather is nice, try and snag a seat outside on the patio.

A couple of interesting and quirky tidbits about the Four Seasons.  First, Christopher Lloyd of Back to the Future and Taxi fame apparently eats there everyday.  Second, the owner of the property (it is managed by Four Seasons) is Ty Warner the guy who founded Beanie Babies.  If you are a collector of Beanie Babies, then the gift shop at the Four Seasons is your mecca.

Bacara

We stayed at Bacara for both the conference and the girls trip so it was interesting to experience it from two different perspectives.  It is a beautiful property that truly feels like a resort.  The buildings are set on rolling hills so you definitely get your exercise walking back and forth from the pool to the restaurants to your room.



View from main building at Bacara

There are several pools to choose from.  The main pool is where all of the families congregate and it can be difficult to find a chair on the weekend.  Also, don't sit right next to the pool unless you mind being the recipient of the "cannonball splash".  You aren't in the south so good manners by kids or their parents are not as prevalent. 

Up one level is the area where the cabanas are and is a little more reserved.  If you are looking for true peace and quiet your best bet is the pool at the spa at the top of the resort.  The only downside (and it's a big one!) is that there is no drink or food service at the spa pool.

You can also walk down to and along the beach and walking trails around the entire property take you up into the hills for some great views.  Unfortunately, the view of the water from the property is marred by oil platforms located several miles directly offshore but it is still spectacular.



View of water from walking
path at Bacara

The spa is nice and offers some great treatments.  It had all of the things you usually find in a spa; steam room, sauna, hot tub, etc.  There is also an upstairs sun deck where you can relax as well as a spacious interior area. Overall, it's a bit smaller than I would have thought so I would have to rate it a B+. 

There are a couple of restaurants on property that are good.  Miro is the main restaurant and is located just off of the main building.  There is also a restaurant down by the pool that is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  The Spa Cafe is great if you are looking for a quick muffin or cup of coffee in the morning.   If you are here for more than a weekend though, you will likely tire of the resort offerings. Bacara is even further from Santa Barbara than the Four Seasons so be prepared for a pricey cab ride each way to and from town.

Things We Did



Mission Santa Barbara

A few things I would recommend during a visit to Santa Barbara.

Check out the Old Mission Santa Barbara.  It is a five minute ride into the hills above downtown and is beautiful.  It also does not take long to see and enjoy.  

Visit the Santa Barbara Courthouse (voluntarily of course...please don't ruin a perfectly good trip by getting arrested).  There are some amazing murals and tile work that you would not expect to find in a courthouse.  

Wine Country

Wine, wine, wine.  There are some great wineries located within an hour of downtown.  Hwy. 154 is the scenic route which takes you high up into the mountains and offers some spectacular views.  The roads wind around and are narrow at times so it is definitely advisable to take this route before you start tasting the wines!  

We visited the following:

Gainey Vineyards

Gainey Vineyards - the grounds were beautiful and the staff in the tasting room was great.

• Fess Parker - yes, of Davey Crockett fame. While the tasting room is somewhat commercial, the wines were surprisingly good 
• Foley Estates - they are known mainly for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir



Foley Estates

• Zaca Mesa - they have lots of picnic tables and outdoor areas in case you want to take a picnic 

Good friends + good wine =
Good Times!

There are lots of cute towns to stop in as you wind your way through the different wineries.  If you don't have time to go to the wineries, there are also several tasting rooms in Santa Barbara which you can visit. 

Take Highway 101 (Pacific Coast Highway) for your trip back into town.  It's a straight shot and will get you back to the resort in time for cocktails at sunset.   Better yet, hire a driver and enjoy cocktails on your way back!

These are just some suggestions on things to do.  Downtown Santa Barbara spans several blocks and has a lot of mainstream and independent stores to visit.  The marina is also beautiful and worth taking a walk around. From what I saw, you really can't go wrong with any of it. 



Having held a place on my "bucket list" for many years, Santa Barbara does not disappoint and I look forward to returning soon.







Two Turkeys: Part III - Great Day Trips from Madrid

There is so much to see in Madrid and the surrounding areas that we knew we would never be able to do it all in 4 1/2 days.  To maximize our experience, we decided to spend two full days in Madrid and visit other cities on the other two days.  Spain has a sophisticated rail system and there are lots of day trip options so we had to narrow our focus.   

Our criteria:  less than one hour travel time each way, a train schedule that would allow us to leave after 9am and return by 6pm each night and the place had to be known for more than one thing.  Our choices:  Toledo and Segovia.

Toledo

Toledo is a walled city located south of Madrid and is a 35 minute train ride from the Atocha station via high speed train.  Our schedule allowed us to spend approximately four hours there. 

Atocha is located within walking distance of many of Madrid's main tourist sites and is the largest train station in Madrid so it can be a bit overwhelming on your first visit.  Renfe has a user friendly website so research schedules before heading to the station.  Plan on arriving at least thirty minutes prior to your desired departure to allow time for disagreeing about where to go, finding the ticket office, buying tickets, and then finding the right tracks. 

Once you find the ticket office, be sure you get a number before getting in line.  We learned that lesson the hard way (and felt a bit like Ben Stiller's character in Meet the Parents when he was the only person in line yet they wouldn't allow him to board until his group number was called). 

The station is well marked but if you have difficulty finding your track, there are uniformed agents throughout the terminal who can help.  There is a security check point for the track area but it is similar to what you might find at a sporting event rather than at the airport. 

Your ticket will have information regarding the train number and departure track.  Renfe does not utilize open seating so make sure you look at your ticket prior to boarding to ensure you get on the correct car and can find your seat. 

The Toledo train station is located about five minutes outside of the walled city.  You can take a bus or a taxi to center of town.  While you could walk, I wouldn't recommend it as the city sits high on a hill so it would be more of a hike or climb than a walk. 


Toledo Street

Toledo is not that big so the best way to experience it is by wandering around.  Since it is in fact a "walled" city, the chances of getting completely lost are slim.  The streets are quite narrow and made of stone so leave the high heels at home.  Pay particular attention on some streets as there is not enough room for a pedestrian and a car so you will have to find the nearest entryway to wait and/or pray in as the car whizzes by.

The most impressive sight by far is the Cathedral (the Primate Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo).  Even compared to places we've seen in England, France and Italy, nothing compares to this.  It took over two hundred years to build so the wide variety of stained glass, marble and fresco works and carvings are amazing.  

There is an audio tour which allows you to tour the Cathedral at your own pace and you will surely miss something otherwise.  Plan on spending at least two hours here.  In addition to the main chapel, there are minor chapels which each have their own distinct feel including a room that contains garments worn by the priests throughout the years as well as a room of treasures bestowed upon the church. 

Inner Chapel

Main Chapel

You can also climb the tower of the cathedral and see some amazing views of the walled city.    

There a lots of smaller churches that are pretty but some have a fairly high entry fee for what you actually get to see so make sure you do your research or ask questions beforehand.  The Alcazar is at the highest point of the city and provides a good visual in case you do get lost. 

While you can't do everything in Toledo in four hours, you can definitely get a feel for the city during a day trip.  It was also interesting to be in a medieval castle within a walled city and look across the fields at the "new"city including malls, soccer fields and gas stations. 

Segovia

Segovia is located northwest of Madrid.  The train to Segovia leaves from the Chamartin station in northern Madrid.  We took a cab from the hotel to the station and it took about 20 minutes.  Chamartin is a much smaller station than Atocha and easier to navigate.  Make sure you check the schedules closely and book a high speed train if you want to maximize your time in the city. 

The high speed train will get you there in less than thirty minutes.  Otherwise, it will take you close to two hours!  If you get claustrophobic or don't like to travel through tunnels, this may not be the trip for you as much of the train ride is spent in the tunnels going through the mountains.  It is beautiful when you get there though.


Aqueduct in Segovia

The train station is about ten minutes from the old portion (i.e. tourist area) of the city.  There is a bus that will take you for less than five dollars.  You can also take a cab but they do not have a taxi stand so you will need to ask someone to call one for you.  You will be dropped off at the circle by the famous Aqueduct.  There is a visitor center on the right hand side of the square as you enter the city if you want to get a map. 



The Aqueduct was built near the second century and is truly amazing.  At the lowest elevation in the city, it stretches across the entry to the old city and stands very tall.  This engineering feat is even more amazing when you realize that it is not held together by any mortar.  You can take the road to other parts of the city but I would recommend climbing the stairs by the aqueduct to get a better appreciation of the structure.  You can then follow a road to other parts of the city. 



View of Cathedral from Alcazar

The Cathedral is located in Plaza Mayor and is beautiful from the outside.  Plaza Mayor is lined with different restaurants and bakeries.  When we were there, it was the location of a farmer/flea market which was an interesting juxtaposition of old and new cultures. 

Cinderella's Inspiration

The Alcazar of Segovia is at the other end of town and was supposedly one of the inspirations for Walt Disney's Cinderella castle.  You can take a tour of the Alcazar as well as climb the tower which provides for some spectacular views of the Spanish countryside. 

Interestingly, Segovia is the only place we went where siesta was widely recognized and at 2pm just about every store in town shut down.  The shopping was far better here than in Toledo so if you want to do any shopping, do it early.  

I would recommend both Toledo and Segovia as being worth the time and effort to visit but it is hard to recommend one over the other.  If it's more important to visit multiple famous landmarks, head to Segovia.  If you like to explore one or two key places in great detail and appreciate every element of its history, Toledo is the place for you.  Either way you can't go wrong. 

Two Turkeys in Spain: Part II - What to do in Madrid

We had a limited amount of time to take in Madrid and the surrounding area during our trip over Thanksgiving week.  We were scheduled to arrive at 11am on Sunday and depart at 1pm on Friday which meant we had to do some "targeted touristing".

Our plan upon arrival was to check in to the hotel, take a disco nap then head out to the museums since many either discount or waive admission on Sunday afternoons.  Unfortunately, our flight was delayed four hours which meant we did not get to our hotel until after 3pm.  We adjusted our plan accordingly and checked in to the hotel and took a nap instead.  Sorry Prado!  After all, if we did everything on our first visit we would have no reason to return.

Getting Acquainted

As painfully touristy as it may seem, the best thing to do on the first day in a new city (especially international destinations) is to take a bus tour.  This allows you to get your bearings and if you are short on time, lets you get a quick glimpse of everything so you can figure out where to spend more time later.  (As an added bonus, the people watching on these things is usually fabulous!)  There are typically single and multi day tickets available which allow you jump on/jump off at various locations throughout the city.

You get to keep the earphones!

GoMadrid has two tour routes and if you stay at the Palace or Ritz hotels, there is a pick up location between the Palace and the Prado Museum. 

The cost is around $20 per person and includes souvenir earphones which allow you to listen to a guided tour with several different language choices.  The tour is on an open top double deck bus.  Definitely sit up top if it is warm enough because you can't see much downstairs.  Also, this is not the best place to get a lot of pictures because you will be taking them all through glass windows. 



Picture taken from tour
 bus...see what I mean?



 The Modern tour makes seventeen stops and the Historic tour makes twenty.  We did both back to back and while there is some overlap in destinations, we appreciated the ability to see things twice.  There is so much to see you can easily get distracted the first time around.

On the Modern tour you will see things like the business district, embassies, Real Madrid's soccer stadium and if you are a homesick American, you also get to see T.G.I. Friday's and Tony Roma's (yep, apparently still in business).  The Historic tour takes a little longer and goes by the Royal Palace, art museums, the theater district, parks, and gardens. 

We spent our first day on the bus but got off several times to walk around, have lunch, etc.  Overall it was a great way to get our bearings in Madrid. 

Recommended things to do in Madrid



Knights in Shining Armor

View of Palace from the G

Don't miss the Royal Palace.  There are amazing views of suburban Madrid, the art includes works by Goya and Velazquez and the decorations and marble work inside are exquisite.  Plan on being there a minimum of two hours.  Not only is it a huge estate, there is a lot to see. 

Be sure to visit the armory while at the Palace.  It is included with your admission but because it is not located in the main building (it is across the quad from the main tourist entrance), it is easy to overlook.  Even if you aren't a history buff, seeing all of the jousting equipment and suits of armor is incredible especially when you think about trying to actually move in and fight with that stuff!  The gardens are also beautiful and worth seeing if you have time. 
 

The king no longer lives in the palace so it is open to the public most days except holidays or when there is an official ceremony.  We got lucky because the President of Brazil was in town while we were there.  This meant that the royal welcome mat had been rolled out complete with armor clad horsemen (and horsewomen).  You could not tour the Palace that day but you could walk up to the gates and see all of the activity. Check with your concierge before going to make sure that it is open.  If there is an official ceremony, definitely go and see all of the pomp and circumstance. 

Plaza Mayor getting ready for Christmas

Plaza Mayor is the central plaza in Madrid with beautiful architecture and is lined with outdoor cafes.  There are multiple entrances to the square and it is fun to just wander along some of the side streets. 

When we were there, the Plaza was being decorated for Christmas which included a village and lots of lights.  We left before they were finished but it looked like it was going to be beautiful.

 

Spanish Spidey

Because it is a major tourist location there are lots of street performers and some beggars.  We never felt anything but safe but as with any city, a little common sense and self awareness go a long way. 

Just off of the Plaza is Mercado de San Miguel.  It is filled with vendors selling fruits, vegetables, wine, cheese and other Spanish food (kind of a smaller, Spanish version of Pike Place Market if you have been to Seattle).  It is a beautiful building and is a great place to get a feel for local Spanish culture. 

Even if you aren't a fan of musicals or dinner theater, go to a Flamenco Show (not a Flamingo show as a startling number of people refer to it as).  We went to Corral de la Moreria which is just down the street from the Royal Palace.  It is off of a side street and is very understated from the outside but any cab driver should know how to get there. 



Flamenco Dancers

 They offer two shows nightly with or without a dinner option.  The early dinner seating is at 8pm with the show starting at 9pm.  We opted for the show only but were able to order some appetizers and wine.  The tables are very close to one another so get ready to wind up talking to your neighbors.  Not surprisingly, most of the patrons were visitors yet we never got the touristy vibe you get at places like Disneyland.  

The room was surprisingly small and intimate which helped create an intense experience.  Even at the furthest edge of the room you could see the facial expressions and passion of each of the musicians and dancers.  The dancers were accompanied by a few guitarists and the rhythms were created by clapping, stomping and beating a wooden box.  Take some time to look at the pictures on the wall in the lobby as you either arrive or exit.  You will be amazed at the number of celebrities who have also enjoyed an evening at Corral de la Moreria. 

If you want to channel your inner Julia Roberts, check out the Salamanca district.  This is Madrid's equivalent to Rodeo Drive and is home to luxury retailers like Cartier, Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton.  If you are a fan of fine leather goods be sure to check out Madrid's own Loewe.  Warning, the cost of one bag here can easily cost more than your entire vacation!

As you explore Madrid, look at the details all around you.  For example, each street sign is an individual piece of art. Also pay attention to the roofs and entryways throughout the city as that is where you will find some of the most interesting architecture and sculptures.  If you happen to stay at the Palace, look at the building across the street.  Every hour on the hour a group of wooden figures "pop" out of the building along with music to mark the hour. 

Regardless of what you do or where you go, you are sure to be captured by this city. There are hidden surprises everywhere.   



Beautiful details on each building



Each street sign is different



Make sure to look up...
or you may miss something!

Next Up:  Two great day trips to take from Madrid