The Wandering Pope: Two Turkeys in Spain: Part II

We had a limited amount of time to take in Madrid and the surrounding area during our trip over Thanksgiving week. We were scheduled to arrive at 11am on Sunday and depart at 1pm on Friday which meant we had to do some "targeted touristing".

Our plan upon arrival was to check in to the hotel, take a disco nap then head out to the museums since many either discount or waive admission on Sunday afternoons. Unfortunately, our flight was delayed four hours which meant we did not get to our hotel until after 3pm. We adjusted our plan accordingly and checked in to the hotel and took a nap instead. Sorry Prado! After all, if we did everything on our first visit we would have no reason to return.

Getting Acquainted

As painfully touristy as it may seem, the best thing to do on the first day in a new city (especially international destinations) is to take a bus tour. This allows you to get your bearings and if you are short on time, lets you get a quick glimpse of everything so you can figure out where to spend more time later. (As an added bonus, the people watching on these things is usually fabulous!) There are typically single and multi day tickets available which allow you jump on/jump off at various locations throughout the city.

You get to keep the earphones!

GoMadrid has two tour routes and if you stay at the Palace or Ritz hotels, there is a pick up location between the Palace and the Prado Museum.

The cost is around $20 per person and includes souvenir earphones which allow you to listen to a guided tour with several different language choices. The tour is on an open top double deck bus. Definitely sit up top if it is warm enough because you can't see much downstairs. Also, this is not the best place to get a lot of pictures because you will be taking them all through glass windows.

Picture taken from tour
bus...see what I mean?

The Modern tour makes seventeen stops and the Historic tour makes twenty. We did both back to back and while there is some overlap in destinations, we appreciated the ability to see things twice. There is so much to see you can easily get distracted the first time around.

On the Modern tour you will see things like the business district, embassies, Real Madrid's soccer stadium and if you are a homesick American, you also get to see T.G.I. Friday's and Tony Roma's (yep, apparently still in business). The Historic tour takes a little longer and goes by the Royal Palace, art museums, the theater district, parks, and gardens.

We spent our first day on the bus but got off several times to walk around, have lunch, etc. Overall it was a great way to get our bearings in Madrid.

Recommended things to do in Madrid

Knights in Shining Armor

View of Palace from the G

Don't miss the Royal Palace. There are amazing views of suburban Madrid, the art includes works by Goya and Velazquez and the decorations and marble work inside are exquisite. Plan on being there a minimum of two hours. Not only is it a huge estate, there is a lot to see.

Be sure to visit the armory while at the Palace. It is included with your admission but because it is not located in the main building (it is across the quad from the main tourist entrance), it is easy to overlook. Even if you aren't a history buff, seeing all of the jousting equipment and suits of armor is incredible especially when you think about trying to actually move in and fight with that stuff! The gardens are also beautiful and worth seeing if you have time.

The king no longer lives in the palace so it is open to the public most days except holidays or when there is an official ceremony. We got lucky because the President of Brazil was in town while we were there. This meant that the royal welcome mat had been rolled out complete with armor clad horsemen (and horsewomen). You could not tour the Palace that day but you could walk up to the gates and see all of the activity. Check with your concierge before going to make sure that it is open. If there is an official ceremony, definitely go and see all of the pomp and circumstance.

Plaza Mayor getting ready for Christmas

Plaza Mayor is the central plaza in Madrid with beautiful architecture and is lined with outdoor cafes. There are multiple entrances to the square and it is fun to just wander along some of the side streets.

When we were there, the Plaza was being decorated for Christmas which included a village and lots of lights. We left before they were finished but it looked like it was going to be beautiful.

Spanish Spidey

Because it is a major tourist location there are lots of street performers and some beggars. We never felt anything but safe but as with any city, a little common sense and self awareness go a long way.

Just off of the Plaza is Mercado de San Miguel. It is filled with vendors selling fruits, vegetables, wine, cheese and other Spanish food (kind of a smaller, Spanish version of Pike Place Market if you have been to Seattle). It is a beautiful building and is a great place to get a feel for local Spanish culture.

Even if you aren't a fan of musicals or dinner theater, go to a Flamenco Show (not a Flamingo show as a startling number of people refer to it as). We went to Corral de la Moreria which is just down the street from the Royal Palace. It is off of a side street and is very understated from the outside but any cab driver should know how to get there.

Flamenco Dancers

They offer two shows nightly with or without a dinner option. The early dinner seating is at 8pm with the show starting at 9pm. We opted for the show only but were able to order some appetizers and wine. The tables are very close to one another so get ready to wind up talking to your neighbors. Not surprisingly, most of the patrons were visitors yet we never got the touristy vibe you get at places like Disneyland.

The room was surprisingly small and intimate which helped create an intense experience. Even at the furthest edge of the room you could see the facial expressions and passion of each of the musicians and dancers. The dancers were accompanied by a few guitarists and the rhythms were created by clapping, stomping and beating a wooden box. Take some time to look at the pictures on the wall in the lobby as you either arrive or exit. You will be amazed at the number of celebrities who have also enjoyed an evening at Corral de la Moreria.

If you want to channel your inner Julia Roberts, check out the Salamanca district. This is Madrid's equivalent to Rodeo Drive and is home to luxury retailers like Cartier, Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton. If you are a fan of fine leather goods be sure to check out Madrid's own Loewe. Warning, the cost of one bag here can easily cost more than your entire vacation!

As you explore Madrid, look at the details all around you. For example, each street sign is an individual piece of art. Also pay attention to the roofs and entryways throughout the city as that is where you will find some of the most interesting architecture and sculptures. If you happen to stay at the Palace, look at the building across the street. Every hour on the hour a group of wooden figures "pop" out of the building along with music to mark the hour.

Regardless of what you do or where you go, you are sure to be captured by this city. There are hidden surprises everywhere.