Two Turkeys: Part III - Great Day Trips from Madrid

There is so much to see in Madrid and the surrounding areas that we knew we would never be able to do it all in 4 1/2 days.  To maximize our experience, we decided to spend two full days in Madrid and visit other cities on the other two days.  Spain has a sophisticated rail system and there are lots of day trip options so we had to narrow our focus.   

Our criteria:  less than one hour travel time each way, a train schedule that would allow us to leave after 9am and return by 6pm each night and the place had to be known for more than one thing.  Our choices:  Toledo and Segovia.

Toledo

Toledo is a walled city located south of Madrid and is a 35 minute train ride from the Atocha station via high speed train.  Our schedule allowed us to spend approximately four hours there. 

Atocha is located within walking distance of many of Madrid's main tourist sites and is the largest train station in Madrid so it can be a bit overwhelming on your first visit.  Renfe has a user friendly website so research schedules before heading to the station.  Plan on arriving at least thirty minutes prior to your desired departure to allow time for disagreeing about where to go, finding the ticket office, buying tickets, and then finding the right tracks. 

Once you find the ticket office, be sure you get a number before getting in line.  We learned that lesson the hard way (and felt a bit like Ben Stiller's character in Meet the Parents when he was the only person in line yet they wouldn't allow him to board until his group number was called). 

The station is well marked but if you have difficulty finding your track, there are uniformed agents throughout the terminal who can help.  There is a security check point for the track area but it is similar to what you might find at a sporting event rather than at the airport. 

Your ticket will have information regarding the train number and departure track.  Renfe does not utilize open seating so make sure you look at your ticket prior to boarding to ensure you get on the correct car and can find your seat. 

The Toledo train station is located about five minutes outside of the walled city.  You can take a bus or a taxi to center of town.  While you could walk, I wouldn't recommend it as the city sits high on a hill so it would be more of a hike or climb than a walk. 


Toledo Street

Toledo is not that big so the best way to experience it is by wandering around.  Since it is in fact a "walled" city, the chances of getting completely lost are slim.  The streets are quite narrow and made of stone so leave the high heels at home.  Pay particular attention on some streets as there is not enough room for a pedestrian and a car so you will have to find the nearest entryway to wait and/or pray in as the car whizzes by.

The most impressive sight by far is the Cathedral (the Primate Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo).  Even compared to places we've seen in England, France and Italy, nothing compares to this.  It took over two hundred years to build so the wide variety of stained glass, marble and fresco works and carvings are amazing.  

There is an audio tour which allows you to tour the Cathedral at your own pace and you will surely miss something otherwise.  Plan on spending at least two hours here.  In addition to the main chapel, there are minor chapels which each have their own distinct feel including a room that contains garments worn by the priests throughout the years as well as a room of treasures bestowed upon the church. 

Inner Chapel

Main Chapel

You can also climb the tower of the cathedral and see some amazing views of the walled city.    

There a lots of smaller churches that are pretty but some have a fairly high entry fee for what you actually get to see so make sure you do your research or ask questions beforehand.  The Alcazar is at the highest point of the city and provides a good visual in case you do get lost. 

While you can't do everything in Toledo in four hours, you can definitely get a feel for the city during a day trip.  It was also interesting to be in a medieval castle within a walled city and look across the fields at the "new"city including malls, soccer fields and gas stations. 

Segovia

Segovia is located northwest of Madrid.  The train to Segovia leaves from the Chamartin station in northern Madrid.  We took a cab from the hotel to the station and it took about 20 minutes.  Chamartin is a much smaller station than Atocha and easier to navigate.  Make sure you check the schedules closely and book a high speed train if you want to maximize your time in the city. 

The high speed train will get you there in less than thirty minutes.  Otherwise, it will take you close to two hours!  If you get claustrophobic or don't like to travel through tunnels, this may not be the trip for you as much of the train ride is spent in the tunnels going through the mountains.  It is beautiful when you get there though.


Aqueduct in Segovia

The train station is about ten minutes from the old portion (i.e. tourist area) of the city.  There is a bus that will take you for less than five dollars.  You can also take a cab but they do not have a taxi stand so you will need to ask someone to call one for you.  You will be dropped off at the circle by the famous Aqueduct.  There is a visitor center on the right hand side of the square as you enter the city if you want to get a map. 



The Aqueduct was built near the second century and is truly amazing.  At the lowest elevation in the city, it stretches across the entry to the old city and stands very tall.  This engineering feat is even more amazing when you realize that it is not held together by any mortar.  You can take the road to other parts of the city but I would recommend climbing the stairs by the aqueduct to get a better appreciation of the structure.  You can then follow a road to other parts of the city. 



View of Cathedral from Alcazar

The Cathedral is located in Plaza Mayor and is beautiful from the outside.  Plaza Mayor is lined with different restaurants and bakeries.  When we were there, it was the location of a farmer/flea market which was an interesting juxtaposition of old and new cultures. 

Cinderella's Inspiration

The Alcazar of Segovia is at the other end of town and was supposedly one of the inspirations for Walt Disney's Cinderella castle.  You can take a tour of the Alcazar as well as climb the tower which provides for some spectacular views of the Spanish countryside. 

Interestingly, Segovia is the only place we went where siesta was widely recognized and at 2pm just about every store in town shut down.  The shopping was far better here than in Toledo so if you want to do any shopping, do it early.  

I would recommend both Toledo and Segovia as being worth the time and effort to visit but it is hard to recommend one over the other.  If it's more important to visit multiple famous landmarks, head to Segovia.  If you like to explore one or two key places in great detail and appreciate every element of its history, Toledo is the place for you.  Either way you can't go wrong.