The Wandering Pope: Prague

The first stop on our big 15 for 15 adventure was Prague. I'll admit, I didn't really pay as much attention as I should have to the Iron Curtain portion of history class so I really wasn't sure quite what to expect.

Getting There

After a mechanical delay and a terminal evacuation at DFW, we were off to Europe. We flew AA to London with a connection on British Airways for the two hour flight to Prague.

When we landed, we didn't have to claim our bags or go through customs. However, even though we arrived at the same terminal as our Prague flight, we still had to go through security. FYI, in Europe you have to take all electronics (iPads, cameras, etc.) out of your bag.

Prague Luggage Carousel Art

We hit the Admirals Club for a little bit of breakfast while we waited for our flight. At Heathrow, gate assignments are not posted until 30-45 minutes prior to departure so it's safer to hang out at one of the club lounges. The only other choice is all of the shops!

The Prague airport is very modern and it took no time for us to get our bags. We showed our passport and were on our way. We had pre-arranged transportation through our hotel and as promised, our English speaking driver was waiting for us right outside security.

The airport is a 20-30 minute drive from the town through lots of farmland. Once we got closer to town, our driver took us through some of the back roads so we could get a feel for the various neighborhoods.

Hallway at Boscolo

Where We Stayed

We used Marriott points and stayed at the Boscolo Exedra. It is within walking distance of Old Town but far enough away that you don't feel like you are in the middle of tourist central.

It is a beautiful property with marble floors and vaulted ceilings but lots of modern amenities. Breakfast (included) offered everything American travelers could want as well as a lot of Eastern European options. Overall, the service was great and rivaled that of any Ritz Carlton or Four Seasons.

What We Did

The key to surviving your transition to the European time zone is to resist the temptation for a nap. So, after a quick change of clothes we headed out. Our first stop was for some lunch.

Republic Square

We stopped at Republic Square which is a great place for people watching, grabbing a quick bite and of course an Aperol Spritz. Afterwards, we headed off to the "Hop On/Hop Off" bus stop. We've found that this is the best way to get acclimated to a new city. We are tourists after all so we might as well embrace it!

It is very important to note that there are two types of vehicles as part of the "Hop On/Hop Off" Prague tour.

Speed 3 - Czech Mate

One is a small bus that apparently can only be operated by a graduate of the Dale Earnhardt school of driving. I have no idea what we saw on the first half of the tour because we were going so fast...the driver was a good 2-3 steps ahead of the taped tour audio.

Luckily we had to change buses at the Prague Castle and were able to get on a bigger bus that physically couldn't go that fast. Prague isn't that big so the tour only takes about 1 1/2 hours to complete (or 38 minutes if you stick to the small bus).

Astronomical Clock

Following our live action Speed 3 experience, we headed down to Old Town Square. There are cafes lining the square as well as lots of street performers. The Astronomical Clock is located on the square and is beautiful.

River at night

Dinner that evening required a walk across the Charles Bridge which is simply mesmerizing at night. The bridge crosses the Vltava River and links the castle with the Old Town.

On our second day, we spent the morning walking around. They were having a wine festival outside of the Palladium Mall so we spent some time sampling the local flavors. Of course, we then had to find a restroom so we headed into the mall. From the outside, Palladium Mall just looks like an old building. However, once you get inside it is a huge, modern shopping mall.

Wine Festival Prague

During the afternoon we did the half day city tour through Prague City Tours. We took a bus through town up to Prague Castle where there are great views of the city from the Castle.

Walking back to town

We walked back to Old Town from the castle. There are great views along the way as well as vineyard on the hillside where another wine festival was taking place (no wonder we liked Prague so much). There were also street musicians playing along the way in the small parks and grassy areas.

A couple of interesting things I learned on this tour: Prague Castle is not really a castle. Prague has a ton of churches and synagogues but approximately 65% of its population is atheist. Prague is basically intact from the war because Hitler wanted to preserve Prague and it's synagogues to show history what he had eradicated (I'll never understand how someone can be that twisted.)

Festrunk Brothers 2015

That afternoon was spent drinking Guinness at a pub which led to our husbands deciding to recreate Steve Martin and Dan Ackroyd's "Two Wild and Crazy Guys". Not much else needs to be said about that....

Vltva River

We had a late afternoon flight on day three so we did a boat cruise in the morning. It was a national holiday that day and the weather was perfect so there were a ton of people out on the river in kayaks and paddle boards.

Where We Ate and Drank

Plzenska Restaurant - part of the Municipal House and located in Republic Square. If it is warm out, this is a great place to grab a snack and just watch everything happen around you

Hemingway Bar - one of the best cocktail bars. Ever. If Grant Achatz and Thomas Keller had a
cocktail bar, this would be it. I had a great whiskey drink with cardamom and my husband had a drink that involved construction at the table via a syringe. Very interesting! Located near the Charles Bridge on the edge Old Town. Reservations are a required. We saw several people turned away.

Kampa

Kampa Park Restaurant - sits on the Vltava River and looks out on the Charles Bridge. They have outdoor seating upstairs as well as a true inside restaurant downstairs (where we sat). I admit I had pessimistic expectations of Czech cuisine in general prior to our trip but the food here was just as good as any upscale restaurant in any other big city. Don't miss the Brown Butter Trilogie for dessert. I might get on a plane and go back just for that!

Teras U Prince

Teras U Prince - this rooftop restaurant would be great during the day or at night. We were there after the sun had set and it really was kind of magical. You could see the lights of the city as well as the Prague Castle. While it is on the roof they have lots of heat lamps so temperature was never really an issue. While the food was good, the main draw is the view. If we had the same meal on ground level I'm not sure I would recommend it as highly.

Black Angel Bar - located downstairs at the U Prince. We walked in but didn't actually have drinks here. I really wish we had. It is in an old dungeon, has a great cocktail list and doesn't allow photos. How could that not be fun???

Irish Times - located in Old Town, it's exactly what it sounds like. An Irish bar. They have outside seating on the square during the day and a traditional bar environment inside at night.

Other Observations

Weather in September can change very rapidly so layers are important.
There are lots of Thai Massage parlors, most of which have the fish tanks for getting a pedicure. Not happening with these feet.
Prague likes to smoke. Everywhere.
English is widely spoken. In fact, most people speak it better than we do.
They do not participate in the EU. They use Koruna. Everything is much more affordable in the Czech Republic but it can take some getting used to when your dinner is 2,500 koruna. Also, be prepared for the numerous references to and reenactments of Puddy and Elaine.

Overall Impression

Prague stole our hearts and we can't wait to go back. While you can see most of the main tourist things in 2-3 days, this is place where I could easily come back and spend more time doing nothing other than just soaking everything in.

Next stop: Munich and Oktoberfest!